GSM Explained: Picking the Right Weight for Hoodies, Fleece and Activewear

GSM — grams per square metre — describes fabric weight, not quality. Two fabrics at the same GSM can feel completely different depending on fibre and knit. Still, GSM is the fastest way to align expectations between buyer and manufacturer.

Weight ranges that work

• 110-140 GSM: lightweight training tees and running singlets. Very breathable, more transparent in light colours.
• 150-180 GSM: everyday performance tees and football shirts. The most common range in teamwear.
• 180-220 GSM: premium tees, polos and compression pieces with a substantial hand feel.
• 240-280 GSM: French terry and light fleece hoodies for transitional weather.
• 300-380 GSM: brushed-back fleece hoodies and heavyweight streetwear silhouettes.
• 400 GSM and above: winter layers, sherpa-lined pieces and heavy oversized hoodies.

Why the same GSM feels different

Knit construction changes everything. A 320 GSM French terry feels crisp and structured; a 320 GSM brushed fleece feels soft and warmer because the inner face is raised. Fibre blend also matters: cotton-rich fabric feels heavier and drapes differently from a poly-rich blend at identical weight.

Practical selection tips

1. 1.Match weight to climate first, then to the price point.
2. 2.For light colours, avoid the bottom of the range to control transparency.
3. 3.For printed hoodies, mid-to-heavy weights hold decoration better and resist distortion.
4. 4.Always confirm GSM after finishing — some finishes shift measured weight.
5. 5.Approve a physical sample. GSM narrows the options; only hand feel confirms them.

What we do at Rare Signs Apparel

We maintain fabric libraries in each range so buyers can compare weights in the same colour and construction, and we state GSM on every quotation so like-for-like comparison is straightforward. Browse fitness and casual ranges or read about our manufacturing standards.

Not sure which weight suits your market? Request a swatch set and our team will send weight options with pricing for your target quantity.